Bhutan: The Land of Gross National Happiness by Pam Perry

This is a guest blogpost by Pam Perry, Director of Operations for Grand Asian Journeys and speaker at our Travelogue on Bhutan back in April at the Bainbridge Library.  We asked Pam to give a brief overview of Bhutan as a travel destination for those who could not make it to the talk. - The Traveler

The first question most people ask when Bhutan is mentioned is “Is that in Africa?,” or perhaps, “Oh yeah, they measure happiness, right?”  Well, no and yes, in that order.

Buddhist Prayer Flags

 Bhutan is a small Himalayan kingdom sandwiched between China to the north and India to the south. It is about the size of Switzerland, with a population of just 700,000 people.

As a traveler coming to Bhutan, the first thing you notice is the stunning views of the Himalayas and the countryside on the plane ride in on Druk Air, the national airline of Bhutan and the only airline allowed to fly there.  Check out this tricky landing in Paro!

Once on the ground, what else does a traveler to Bhutan notice?  Here are just a few highlights of a typical visit.

Taktsang Monastery or "The Tiger's Nest"

☞  The Tiger’s Nest hangs on a cliff wall 2,900 feet above the valley floor and is only accessible by foot.  It exemplifies the remarkable architecture that is used for virtually every building in the country.

☞  Bhutan has a rich, well-preserved Buddhist culture which is evident everywhere.

☞  Trekking routes that are less populated than many others in the Himalayas 

☞  No plastic bags! (They’ve been banned since 1999) 

Why is everyone smiling?

Gross National Happiness

A very poor country, Bhutan’s fourth king decided that he would not use economics alone to measure the wealth of his country. The four pillars of Gross National Happiness are: cultural preservation, equitable economic development, good governance and environmental protection.  

Grouped together, these measures inform virtually every decision that the government makes. The government spends a good deal of money on health care, education and infrastructure, all for the betterment of their country and their people…things you will notice if you visit. 

No plastic bags!

How much does it cost to go to Bhutan?  It is not as expensive as one might expect. The “daily tariff” charged by the Bhutanese government, currently at around $200 per person, is not just a visa fee.  It is also a minimum amount of money that the government requires that you spend each day on transportation, food, lodging and guide services. There are many factors that can determine the trip cost, including the quality of accommodations.  

If you’re interested in visiting, it is necessary to book through a reputable tour operator. You cannot visit Bhutan on your own.  Grand Asian Journeys is one such local operator, and we are offering several itineraries to Bhutan, including Fibers of Bhutan: Culture, Heritage & Art (May 15-26, 2012).  Visit our Bhutan page or contact us for more information.

A passionate traveler, Pam Perry manages Grand Asian Journey's U.S. Office. She handles all client inquiries, bookings, marketing and administrative tasks.  Currently, she's developing exciting new itineraries for Bhutan, India and Vietnam for 2012 and beyond.  

Great Reads on Bhutan : Check our website, www.thetraveler.com, for a list of recommended books and guides on Bhutan.

Here are a few recent reports on Bhutan from Public Radio International's The World radio program.  

Bhutan's Hydropower Challenge (7/7)
How Democracy is Evolving in Bhutan (6/22) 

Why it costs $200 a Day in Bhutan (5/17)

Bhutan's Reform Program (5/10)

RE: Bhutan's Tobacco Laws (4/19)

Postcard from Bhutan: Gross National Happiness (4/15) - features a great slide show

Kingdom in the Himilayas (4/13) - features video of archery, the national pastime

Other links:
Fewer Fancy Hats, But Plenty of Pomp at Bhutan's Royal Wedding (NY Times, 10/13)
King of Bhutan Marries in Elaborate Ceremony (Seattle Times, 10/13)

Road Trip! -- Walla Walla, Washington

This Road Trip! Report comes from Traveler staff member Timmie Chandler, who recently completed a trip east of the Cascades with her husband Rick Chandler, who is Curator/ and Facilities Coordinator for the Bainbridge Island Historical Museum.

The tourism slogan for Walla Walla, WA is: "Walla Walla - Surprise Surprise." And indeed, we were! Having never been to Walla Walla -- some say a town so cute they had to name it twice -- in the 33 years I have lived in the Great Northwest, I didn't know what to expect.

Walla Walla Onions

They bring a tear to my eye.

We were going so that my husband Rick could collect his Award of Excellence from the Washington Museum Association's Annual Conference. In fact, he took home two awards - one individual award for himself and one for the exhibit, Ansel Adams' "Portrait of Manzanar" at the Bainbridge Island Historical Museum.  The exhibit will be on display there until December 7th. If you live nearby and haven't seen it, you should allow yourself the time. It is a powerful statement of the Japanese internment during World War II.

We planned to spend the first night in Yakima, WA so that Rick could get into Walla Walla in a timely fashion for the first day of the conference. Along the way, we made our usual Curious Chandlers' side trips. We stopped at the new Suncadia Resort and Village.  Once a coal mine, now a swanky resort and golf course getaway.

We took another side trip to Roslyn to see what the Northern Exposure fuss was all about. I never did watch that program when it aired on TV in the early 1990s - nor have I seen the reruns. Maybe this Chandler isn't as curious as the Curator Chandler?

The author in Roslyn, WA.

The exit from Roslyn took us through the Yakima Canyon Scenic Byway.  It was beautiful. I felt as though I was floating through a watercolor. The canyon walls were basalt - covered in what looked like green velvet in places - all dotted with wild flowers. The Yakima River runs through it along with railroad tracks.

Yakima Valley Museum

Our final destination of the day was Yakima, where Rick wanted to visit the Yakima Valley Museum.  The museum was superlative in every sense, and they are not dependent upon state or local government monies to fund their programs and exhibits.  They have wealthy donors and private funding campaigns that not only keep them afloat, but keep them keenly competitive on the museum stage (as it were).  The building is an architectural delight.  Here we learned that celebrity chef Mario Batali is one of Yakima's favorite sons. He recently donated a wind up toy of himself and a pair of his used Crocs™ to the museum's collections.

Mario's Crocs™

Perhaps the most famous favorite son of Yakima though is Chief Justice William O. Douglas. One of the museum exhibits is his complete office that was donated to the museum after he died in 1980 - his desk, fireplace & mantel, all of his books and personal effects, his standing desk, his Justice chair, his robe - everything that was in his office after 36 years on the Supreme Court Bench. I believe his cabin still exists in Goose Valley, too. The exhibit has been built to duplicate his office in DC. They had to make a few tweaks here and there, but it is fairly faithful to the original office layout.

Yakima Museum Soda Shop

We allowed ourselves guilty pleasure ice cream cones from the soda fountain after we toured the museum. 

Rick @ Chandler Reach Winery

And of course, we weren't going to pass up stopping at a namesake winery! Chandler Reach Winery in Benton City was closed, but we've had their wines. They are quite good. We were introduced to Chandler Reach wines by none other than Seattle restauranteur Ethan Stowell, back when he was at the helm of Union on First Avenue.

Our room at the Marcus Whitman Hotel

Upon our arrival in Walla Walla, we checked into our room at the Marcus Whitman Hotel.  The Washington Museum Association got us special rates, but the hotel offers a wide range of lodging alternatives, including suites. They also offer a number of special packages, from golf to spa to "The Ultimate Mancation."  The hotel has been beautifully restored and refurbished in recent years. We were über comfy - leading the 'lush' life in Walla Walla wine country.

Whitman College Campus

The Washington Museum Association Conference was held at Whitman College, a small, liberal arts institution with approximately 1,500 students. The campus, like all of Walla Walla, is peppered with public art and sculptures like the ones to the right.

Artist working on a triptych at

the Marcus Whitman Hotel.

Rick and I enjoyed our downtown explorations, and because of the conference, I had a chance to enjoy my own 'little alones" as well.  We found Walla Walla to be very walkable, with a lot of public art installations, fun shops, delicious restaurants and interesting architecture.  Here are some highlights....

"If these walls could talk!"

If the walls of the old buildings in town aren't adorned with paintings or tilework, they are left in their beautiful brick splendor like the one at left.

We had scrumptious moules frites at Brasserie Four on Main Street, which was rated as #4 of 29 Walla Walla  restaurants by Trip Advisor.com.

Hot Poop!

Hot Poop has been a Walla Walla icon for over 30 years.  The girl with the parasol (left) is just one of many colorful roadside attractions in this college town.

Mill Creek runs right 

through downtown

We enjoyed the public art installations and catching occasional glimpses of Mill Creek, which winds its way through downtown through a maze of channels and tunnels.

Relaxing after a picnic lunch downtown.

We discovered some free attractions as well, like Gerald Matthews' Museum of Unnatural History, a collection of "opinionated, satiric, iconoclastic creations of questionable taste."  While not for everyone, this art installation and the museum's charismatic founder/curator adds a bit of color to this little town in eastern Washington.

"Un-natural" History?

While Rick attended the conference workshops, I managed to ferret out wines, which I deemed taste-worthy. This one from Plumb Cellars caught my eye because Rick is a carpenter. The 2007 Damn Straight Red shown here is the recipient of a 2011 Double Gold Seattle Wine Award.  It's a fine wine.

Did we have a good time on our Walla Walla Road Trip? "Damn straight" we did!

  

Benton County Historical Museum

On our way home, we stopped in Prosser, WA to get some caffeine, and we visited the Benton County Historical Museum. From the outside, it looks like a dinky little museum housed in a pole building, but inside it houses 5,000 sq. ft. of exhibits - like this one of a 'square' grand piano. Only 53 were ever built. This museum was a serendipitous find.

Tacoma Narrows Bridge

The weather was gorgeous east of the mountains until Saturday morning when we woke to rain. The snotty weather followed us all the way home. We crossed the Tacoma Narrows Bridge in a misty, moisty fog at dusk - my first trip across the bridge since it became two.  We returned home to Harbour Marina and our houseboat with great memories of our off the beaten path adventures.

I read in the paper recently that 'staycations' are out, but 'cheapcations' are in - despite the cost of gas. Like us, folks are venturing a little further away from home, but still don't want to be hit hard when the bottom line rolls around. What makes 'cheapcations' so much fun is that you constantly discover something off the beaten path that you haven't seen before - and you take the time to explore because it is, well, the cheap thing to do!

This jaunt cost us around $1,100, including gas, ferry tolls, food, museum admissions, and hotel rooms.  We weren't watching our pennies, and didn't skimp on gourmet dining and libations.  We could have reduced the costs significantly by being a little bit more budget conscious, and by choosing one of Walla Walla's many less expensive lodging options, which are listed below.  

More Walla Walla weblinks: Official Walla Walla Tourism Site, History and Cultural Attractions, Lodging Alternatives, Walla Walla Downtown Walk Brochure.

Excerpt from October Travelogue - Beautiful Bali by Reid Coen

Presentation by Reid Coen of Imprint Tours
October 20, 2010 at Kitsap Regional Library (KRL), Bainbridge Branch
Bainbridge Island, WA
Sponsored by KRL and The Traveler

Note: This is our first attempt at taking videos, and the quality of the footage and editing is not what we had hoped.  Please be patient with us as we get up and running.

(The following text is from Reid Coen's original handout at the Travelogue.  We have inserted hyperlinks about specific sites to provide you with more information.)

"The island paradise of Bali has long been the traveler's jewel of Indonesia.  Blessed with great natural beauty, a rich cultural heritage, welcoming locals, and low prices, it is a perfect Southeast Asian destination.  Travelers enjoy volcanic peaks, photogenic rice terraces, dramatic waterfalls, and some of the world's best beaches on an easily traversed island of only 5,600 square miles.  The cultural life is colorful, rich, accessible, and engaging and includes dance, music, and theater.  The island is dotted with beautiful temples and Balinese arts and crafts make it a shopping paradise.  A traditional Hindu-Animist culture means visitors are safe and treated as honored guests.  Finally, and perhaps best, Bali is an incredible travel bargain for Americans.  By adding a quick foray to neighboring Java and its cultural capital, Jogjakarta, one can also enjoy the dual World Heritage sites of Borobudur and Prambanan.

"Southern Bali
Kuta, Legian, Seminyak - Bali's biggest "scene"; the hub of commercial resort tourism; easy access to airport; great beach, great surfing, great shopping, accommodations for every budget, nightlife, spas, and entertainment.  Tuban is slightly milder; one great spot: Waterbom Park.

Dancer
Ubud, Bali

"Nusa Dua - International resort chain HQ

"Sanur - a quieter alternative; lovely beach with promenade; access to Denpassar accomodations and restaurants for every budget

"Sights/Activities: Ulu Watu - one of Bali's most dramatically situated temples; stunning cliffs, lovely sunsets; Kecak/Fire dance nightly; nearby beaches for serious surfers, sunset seafood barbeque at Jimbaran Beach

Pura Goa Lawah Temple

"East Bali
Southeast coast - beaches and temples: Goa Lawah (Bat Cave Temple); Padang Bai (boats to Nusa Penida and Lombok); Candi Dasa -- quieter beach resort area; Tenganan - traditional Bali Aga village and craft center; Water Palaces of Ujung (abandoned) and Tirtagangga (still operational); Ujung to Kusambi coast road
Amed - quiet, undeveloped coastline; good snorkeling and diving; pebble beaches
Gunung Agung - Bali's highest, most holy peak -- rice terraces (Sideman Rd.);
Besakih - the mother temple, Bangli temples

Rice terraces

"West Bali
Tanah Lot - Bali's most famous temple; on island off southwest coast; sunset institution; sunrise without the crowds (Rambut Siwi)
Menjangan island snorkeling/diving; Lovina Beach -- quieter vibe; dolphins

Tanah Lot, southwest coast

"Interior Bali
Ubud - Bali's cultural capital: performances (Barong, Legong, Kecak, Ramayana, puppet theater, +), shopping (clothing, textiles, craft villages north and south), art (Puri Lukisan, Neka Gallery), dining, courses (cooking, meditation, dance, music, arts/crafts); trekking; rafting; cycling; bird watching
Sightseeing near Ubud: Goa Gajah (Elephant Temple); Yeh Pulu; Gunung Kawi; Tirta Empul water temple; Klungkung
Special Events: cremations and temple festivals

"Mt. Batur - volcanic mountain with steaming lava dome, verdant caldera with lake, caldera-hanging temples, spectacular views, magical sunset/sunrises

Gunung Batur, Bali

"Muduk/Bratan area - picturesque island temple Pura Bratan; Bali's best Botanical garden (Treetop Adventures); Munduk trekking -- waterfalls, lakes, mountains

Borobudur - 8th Century Buddhist Temple Complex
World Heritage Site, Java

"Jogjakarta (Yogyakarta), Java
Easy access - 70 minute flight; <$100;
great tourist infrastructure -- lots of accommodations (all budgets; Prawirotaman neighborhood)
Jogja - Kraton, Taman Sari water palace, bird market, batik demos/shopping, Kota Gede silver, shopping centers; Ramayana Ballet -- Puriwisata or Pramban (summer outside)
Borobudur - truly awe inspiring, 8th century Buddhist stupa "mountain", with Angkor Wat the greatest ancient monument in SE Asia
Prambanan - impressive 9th century Hindu temple site

Prambanan Temple Complex
World Heritage Site, Java

Reid Coen
Imprint Tours

www.imprintours.com

3033 NW 66th St.

Seattle, WA  98117

206-617-9928

Ballyhoo! Books on Bali

A quick look in our stacks revealed the following guidebooks on Bali and surrounds.  You can use any of these titles to continue your research...

Diving Bali: The Underwater Jewel of Southeast Asia by David Pickell & Wally Siagian

Lonely Planet Guide to Bali & Lombok, 12th  Edition (Apr 2009)

Lonely Planet Bali Encounter, 2nd Edition (Oct. 2010)

DK Eyewitness Travel: Bali & Lombok (2009)

Eating Smart in Indonesia: How to Decipher the Menu, Know the Market Foods, & Embark on a Tasting Adventure by Joan and David Peterson (1997)