Slow or Fast Travel?

Which is the better way to go?  Is it "slow travel," where you stay in one place for a long time and soak in a microcosm?  Or is tourist travel better, where you cover lots of ground and do lots of exploring?  This is an important consideration as you plan your next trip.   After all, you only have so much time, money, and stamina, and you really want to get the best out of your short time away.  Based on our experiences this past year, it seems to me that the answer is, “It depends.”

We left the US in September 2009 and traveled through July 2010, visiting the Fiji Islands, Australia, Thailand, Singapore and New Zealand.  Calling it, “The Year of Homeschool in a Global Classroom,” we focused for the most part on homeschooling our then fourth and sixth graders.  We engaged in both slow and tourist travel, with varying results.  

While in Fiji, we rarely strayed more than 20 kilometers away from our rental home at SigaSiga.  The pace of life was much slower -- we literally planned our days around the tides.  With no car, we hoofed, bussed or cabbed it everywhere. With nothing to buy, there was no reason to go into town unless we really needed food.  We explored our surroundings at a much slower and deliberate pace, returning to spots numerous times.  We established weekly rituals, like joining the local Rotarians for dinner each Tuesday.  In the course of all this, we made many more lasting friendships, learned a lot about the peoples we were living around and, in our own tiny way, were actually a part of Savusavu goings on for a time.  We were “home” on the other side of the globe.

So many reefs, little time

The cost of living this “slow travel” existence was that we only managed to really explore one small part of one of Fiji’s 300 islands.  (Not that I'm complaining about it!)  We became experts on our local reef at the cost of missing thousands of kilometers of other spots.  We got to know our First Fijian and Indo-Fijian neighbors to a certain point but left, we felt, as we were just on the cusp of taking our friendships to a new level, with all the good and bad that that entailed.

In short, we left Fiji having only scratched the surface.  If Savusavu were just a short hop away from the States, or if there weren’t so many other island chains to explore in the South Pacific, this wouldn’t be all that troubling.  It remains the sentimental favorite part of our trip, but a place we may be reluctant to return to for lack of time and financial reasons.

Our travel experiences beyond Fiji by contrast were more broad-stroke.  The longest time we stopped anywhere was at most two weeks or so -- okay, we did stay for a month and then some in Bangkok.  We gained a good broad view of what each country and its peoples were like.  We learned more or less how to get around, where the great tourist and cultural spots are and how to quickly get settled in and comfortable in budget accommodations for four.   We experienced first hand some of the downsides of all this “tourist travel” as well though.  

The biggest drawback of being touristy, of course, was the expense of it all.  With only temporary digs, we couldn’t stock up on groceries, take advantage of long term lodging discounts, or pick up the little time- and money-saving tricks native to every geography.  (E.g., Where is the best place to buy specific items?  When is the best to time visit certain sites? Etc.)

It could also be a very difficult and sometimes a lonely existence constantly traveling from place to place, living out of a few suitcases and having to get our bearings over and over again.  City and place names had a tendency to melt into each other.  And we just couldn’t really meet any locals, requiring a level of “family togetherness” that is sometimes hard to sustain.

We had none of these problems in Fiji – well,  okay except for the family togetherness struggles at times.  Life had developed a kind of normalcy there that we came to miss, something we weren’t really able to duplicate for the remainder of the trip.

For the above reasons, one might think that slow travel has the edge over fast, but consider the variety of places we visited.  Savusavu, Fiji was tiny and, because of the bad roads and our lack of transportation, we had to travel slowly.  The population was likewise small and incredibly welcoming.  We couldn't help but feel at home, almost from the get go.  To some extent, we chose Savusavu as our first destination because we knew that we wanted to live on "Fiji Time."  "Fiji Time" does not exist everywhere though.  

Bangkok was perhaps the polar opposite of Fiji for us.  How long would it take to feel like you are a part of a community with ten million people speaking a different language, with a vastly different set of cultural rules and traditions and undergoing a major political upheaval?  No, we didn’t stay there as long but by moving around a lot, we did manage to learn a lot about Thailand and its peoples.  We even got a little snippet of understanding of the significant political challenges that are facing the country as the Red Shirts and government battle it out over who is really in charge. 

Then there are places like New Zealand, which are so large and rich in terms of natural wonders that it would be a shame to spend a huge chunk of time in any one region.  We all agree that we would have been bored silly had we stayed in Christchurch for six or eight weeks as we had originally intended.  You just need to get out and about to experience the beauty of that place.  

The Many Faces of New Zealand

So, it seems to me that the places we visited last year called for different travel strategies.  We couldn't do it all and we couldn't "do" each country the same way.  With lots of help, lots of luck and a strong willingness to be flexible, we managed to put together a really great year.

There are ways to combat the isolation and lack of in-depth knowledge of a place that comes with traveling fast.  Here are a few that worked for our family:

Do your homework!  While a good guidebook is invaluable, go beyond that.  Seek out and read books by local authors detailing the history and culture of the places you are visiting.  In New Zealand, for instance, we found a great series of historical fiction books, which described specific places and events in Kiwi history from a child’s point of view. 

Watch movies, search the blogosphere and soak up as much as you can about the place before you go.  All this “research” will give you context that you won’t have time to gain on a short visit alone.  You’ll be more in tune with what look for, and you may just spot things that only a local would appreciate. 

Plug in….but not too much.  We watched the TV news every night and read the local newspaper, giving us a great idea of local goings on.  This worked less well in Thailand, where we didn’t speak the language, but you can still garner a lot about a culture by looking at advertisements and seeing what sort of entertainment the locals enjoy. 

One spot where this practice worked spectacularly well for us was Wellington, NZ, where we were able to use the nightly news to learn about the workings of the Kiwi Parliament before and after visiting the famous “Beehive" where they do the Peoples' business. 

Hoof it.

Put on your walking shoes.  Plan on walking…alot.  Get a good map and explore your surroundings, rather than watch them go at many miles per hour.


Where you can, climb out of the rental car or taxi and use public transportation to get around.   We also found that, with the notable exception of Sydney, public transportation employees were very helpful in pointing us in the right direction.

By traveling with the masses, you might see less geography but you’ll enjoy a lot more of the benefits of slow travel.  Buses don’t always take the most direct route so you can find new spots to explore that you might not have read about.  Out of the cocoon of a car, you also have a much better chance of interacting with locals and getting their take on life.  And or course, you’ll be reducing your carbon footprint!

Bus it!

Follow your interests.  We are avid birders and fish-watchers, so we sought out nature-watching opportunities in every destination.  This became a running theme of our trip and a way to compare and contrast the variety of environments we visited, as well as the political, economic, and cultural factors that affected wildlife populations.

You don’t have to be a bird-brain to gain such insights on your own trip though.  Pick something that interests you  -- art, food, architecture, fishing, religious traditions, whatever – and delve into it at your destination.  Such a focus will provide a framework for your itinerary and a great way to appreciate the similarities and differences between countries and cultures on a subject matter with which you are already familiar.

Keep your ears open!

Keep a “slow travel” mindset.  Perhaps most important of all, slow down!  That is perhaps the biggest and most valuable souvenir of our year studying abroad.  Wherever you go, don’t try to do it all.  Use your pre-departure planning (or a well-run tour service) to put together an itinerary that is lean but open to changes on the fly.  Keep your eyes and ears open and mind amenable to drinking it all in, even if “it” occurs in a space that is smaller than a city block. 

Happy trails.


-- Brooke Drury, Staff

Voluntourism - Gain Through Giving on Your Next Trip

From time to time, we will pass along content and links to other travel blogs we think our users with find of interest.  This week, the bloggers at Lonely Planet released a great article titled, 27 Travel Tips (or, How to Get More Out of your Trip).  Some of the ideas shared here are pretty intuitive -- like researching your destination before you go (#1) and planning activities other than "touristy things" (#18).  We liked some of the not-so-obvious suggestions, like #9, "take your hobbies with you" and #20, which espouses author John Steinbeck's practice of searching for some obscure item that you don't think would be available at your destination.  The resulting "wild goose chase" can show you a side of your destination that no tour book could possibly offer.

No. 28 - Lend a hand!

We would add a 28th tip to the list.  Getting involved in the community or "voluntourism" is a wonderful way to give back to the community you are visiting, but the experiences and insights gained are of equal if not more value.

Fiji Day Cleanup of Savusavu 2009
Savusavu, Fiji

Last fall, our family spent four months in Savusavu, Fiji, a little town on Fiji's second biggest island, Vanua Levu.  We were lucky to connect early on with the Rotary Club of Savusavu, which does wonderful work improving schools, providing safe drinking water systems for local villages and doing other community service projects.  We are not Rotarians, but were welcomed into the fold and immediately put to work.  Over the course of our stay, we did a lot with the organization, helping to feed hungry school kids after a city-wide garbage cleanup, making local treats and crafts to sell at to tourists on cruise ship day, and keeping a photographic record of some of the groups many community projects.  We learned a lot in the process.

It felt good to lend a hand in a place where there is an incredible amount of need.  At the same time, we got to meet some wonderful locals who filled us in on many of the day to day struggles and stories in our temporary home.  We got to see Savusavu from a local's point of view (Lonely Planet Tip #3), we learned a lot about Fijian customs (LP Tip #13) and we learned, as the Fijians would say, "plenty phrases" in the local language (LP Tip #4).  Even today it is hard for me to say who benefited more from our participation.

So check to see if there is a Rotary Club chapter or other social service organization in your next destination.  Attend a meeting or two and, if possible, sign yourself up to volunteer.  In addition to lending a hand, you'll meet new people and learn a heck of a lot about the local community, making your trip all the more memorable.

Have you "voluntoured"?  What was your experience?  Please use the comments section to pass along your thoughts and suggestions to our readers.

Savusavu Hospital Children's Ward Beautification Project
December 2009

-- Brooke Drury, staff 

Serviced Apartments: A Great Lodging Alternative, but Bring a Knife!

One of the joys – and sometimes the biggest challenges – of traveling with kids is providing them with the comforts of home at an affordable price.  In my family of four’s recent year-long excursion through Australasia, choosing a good place to call “home” during our various stays was vital.  It often made the difference between a happy day of homeschool and exploring and “The Grumps.”  Serviced or self-catered apartments provided us with an especially great lodging option, often at a very reasonable price.

Fewer $$$ & Less Hassle

Unlike in the US, where hotel stays are the norm and where home rentals or “suites” are rather expensive, it is easy to find affordable self-catered apartments in many urban destinations abroad.  For instance, using Wotif.com, we found a great two bedroom apartment in the very inviting Cuba neighborhood of Central Wellington, NZ for around NZ$90 (+/- US$70) per night.  This was a weekly rate and included internet, cable tv and in-building laundry.    Melbourne, Australia was one of the more expensive cities we visited, and yet we still managed to find a great one bedroom apartment with in-room laundry, fast and free internet service and – to our kids’ joy – a dishwasher for just over $100 per night.

Southern Cross Service Apartments
Central Wellington, NZ

In every case, we found our apartment accommodations clean and, for the most part, well equipped.  (See “Tips” section below.)  There were many places to choose from too, from high end, luxury flats to funky, retro-fitted spaces with un-matched second-hand furniture.  The “you get what you pay for” rule still applies in these spots, but we found many good options that were within our tight travel budget.  And, with a full kitchen and the ability to eat three meals a day at home, we were able to save even more.   

Buckingham Int'l Serviced Apartments
Brighton, AU

With all (okay, most) of the comforts of home, we were able to concentrate more on exploring and less on “Where are we going to dinner?” or “How am I going to get clean underwear for tomorrow?”  In addition, we all got a much better idea of what it is really like to live in these destinations. answering questions such as....What is it like to live in an apartment in the Big City?  How do people who live downtown without a car?  How do they do their shopping and other errands?  How do they get their exercise?   Where do they go for fun?  In my mind, that bonus was priceless.

Tips for Serviced Apartment Dwellers

Here are a few things to think about or do as you explore your family’s alternatives for serviced-apartments abroad. 

1.  Do your homework.  Research your alternatives like you would research any apartment rental.  Check out the neighborhood.  Is it safe?  Is it close to the places you want to visit?  If you have a car, make sure there is parking.  If you don’t, make sure there is easy access to a grocery store and/or public transportation. 

Wotif.com and other lodging websites provide pictures, location information and plenty of other data to help you make your lodging decision.  We also sometimes called the facilities directly to get answers to specific questions from real human beings.

One can find even better rates for stays longer than a day or two, and weekly specials are often available. To save even more money, ask whether further discounts are available if you forego or agree to reduced maid service.

2.  Watch your timing.  Serviced apartments are a favorite among local tourists as well, especially those with kids, so these places are usually the first to be snatched up during school holidays.  We learned this the hard way when our planned arrival in Christchurch, NZ coincided with the Kiwi schools’ April mid-term vacation.  Make your reservations well in advance if your itinerary coincides with such periods.

3.  Check connectivity.  Unlike the US, where it is easy to find free a wifi connection with unlimited downloads, you will often have to pay for internet access abroad.  If you want internet service in your apartment, it is crucial that you check out those details before booking your serviced apartment.  Just because the website says that internet is “available” does not mean it is free, and you can quickly rack up internet connectivity and download charges to make for a very expensive stay. 

Typical Kitchen Unit
Melbourne, AU

4.  Bring a knife!  While most kitchens contained sufficient kitchen “basics,” these items were often cheaply made and sometimes hard to use.  Perhaps most bothersome to me was that we never found a place with a good kitchen knife.  Had I to do it over again, I would have purchased a cheap plastic protective cover for my favorite chopper and thrown it in our suitcase.  

Other specialty kitchen tools are worth bringing or buying if you have the room.  For our three months in New Zealand, I bought a good peeler, a small grater and some disposable storage containers.  I left these with a friend upon our departure, but could just have easily left them behind in our last apartment.  Being Pacific Northwest coffee hounds, my husband and I also packed our own stove-top espresso maker.

Finally, it may seem strange, but bring a little bit of home décor to spruce up the place, if you have room in your suitcase.  We repurposed a small, cotton sarong as a table cloth and found that it really gave us a feeling of “home” when we spread it on the dining table. 

5.  Think about lighting.  Mangers of serviced apartments learned long ago that overhead lighting is a much better and cheaper alternative to providing free standing or table lamps.  We were homeschoolers and big readers on our trip, so we really felt the lack of reading lights.   Had we to do it over again, we would have brought a portable reading light or two. 

We also got a lot of use out of tea lights, which we placed in glasses or other safe spots around our lodgings at night.  Such “mood lighting” made for a more “homey” ambiance, giving us a needed break from the harsh fluorescent overhead bulbs that appear to be the norm.

So, next time you travel with your family – or not – think about renting a serviced apartment instead of a hotel room.  You may just enhance your living experience overseas and save money in the process!

Have you given serviced apartments a trying in the course of your travels?  Do you have any recommendations or advice that we haven’t covered here?  Please do share!

About the author:  Bainbridge Island-based Brooke Drury, her husband Ben and kids Tica (12) and Ian (10) just returned from a year-long adventure in Australasia, with extended stays in Fiji, Thailand, New Zealand and Australia.  They called it the year of Homeschool in a Global Classroom and kept a blog of their adventures.  Brooke now works for The Traveler, both in the store and on internet-related activities.